Il Pallacorda è un bellissimo campo, nonostante tutto. Il tutto in questione sono l’incuria dei marmi, il ristorante extra-lusso per Vip nostrani che amabilmente sovrasta un lato corto del campo e copre un paio di statue e la baita-capanna di SKY che non si sa bene che perchè sia lì.
Dal canto mio c’è solo uno stadio che ha un atmosfera incomparabile. Era il Louis Armstrong Stadium di Flushing prima che riducessero la capienza mutilandolo. Sembrava una bolgia infernale, una massa umana in bilico sul campo…se poi ci vedi (come mi successe) Sampras vs Corretja quarti di finale 96 con Sampras che al quinto set vomita sul campo poi serve un ace di seconda…tutto diventa più magico
]]>Molto bella
Rome’s Pallacorda may be the world’s best court
Posted: Thursday May 5, 2005 2:51PM; Updated: Thursday May 5, 2005 2:51PM
The statue-encircled Pallacorda was built by the order of Mussolini in 1935.
Stuart Franklin/Getty Images
I mean this as no disrespect to the U.S. Open’s Grandstand court, the famed “Bullring” at Roland Garros or any of the courts at the Monte Carlo club that overlook the Mediterranean.
But for our euros, the mythical title of “world’s best tennis court” goes to the Pallacorda, the marbled basin of Rome’s Foro Italico. Like seeing an opera at La Scala or watching a Cubs game at Wrigley Field, the Pallacorda is a venue so stunning that it can render the actual event somewhat irrelevant.
Sitting on the marbled “bleachers” of this underground pit, it’s easy to feel someone looking over your shoulder. And I don’t mean the cheap bastard trying to peek at your draw sheet. The Pallacorda is ringed by 18 massive statues of Roman gods, each representing a different sport. At 40 feet high or so, these figurines tower over the court and their presence packs a symbolic message about perspective.
Those 150-mph aces are all well and good, pal. But see that dude over there? In his day, he could hurl thunderbolts. No, I’m being literal here.
Credit for this masterpiece on the banks of the Tiber goes to an unlikely source. At the height of his grandiloquence, Mussolini ordered the court constructed in 1935. Mussolini was, in fact, a decent player who had his own private tennis pro on his payroll. He would only hit forehands, however, and also hated to acknowledge anything French or English in origin so he refuses to call the sport “tennis,” referring to it instead as “pallacorda” — translated roughly as “string ball.”
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By the time the Pallacorda was completed in 1939, Mussolini had bigger problems on his hands than silly semantics or running around his backhand. In response to Italy’s fascism, an international edict prohibited the country from hosting an international event. The ban lasted until 1950. Ubaldo Scanagatta, a press-room fratello who has forgotten more about Italian tennis than anyone else ever knew, calls this Mussolini’s double fault. “The first fault was the campaign in Africa and losing the War,” says Scanagatta. “Then, the second fault, for whole decade of the 1940s, no one can play on Pallacorda.”
Eventually the Pallacorda became the show court for the Italian Open, and it has spawned plenty of tennis mythology. The Telecom Masters, as the Rome tour stop currently is called, still carries prestige on the tennis firmament. But not long ago, the Italian Open was regarded as the “fifth slam” and all the big names — Rod Laver, Bjorn Borg, Chris Evert, Steffi Graf, Martina Navratilova, Pete Sampras, Monica Seles — played the Pallacorda. The fans who filled the marble were often of the bread-and-circus variety. An opponent who played an Italian, or simply questioned one too many line calls, became a target for taunts, boos, one-fingered salutes and hurled coins.
Playing on the Pallacorda in the 1978 Italian Open semifinals, Jose Higueras led Italy’s Adrianno Panatta 6-0, 5-1 before he let the partisans, the corrupt local linesmen and the ghosts of the Pallacorda get to him. When a series of calls went against him, Higueras became increasingly frustrated and at one point flipped off the crowd. This inspired chants of “Clown” (politely translated) and change started raining from the stands. After losing the second set 7-5, Higueras retired, fearing for his safety.
Nothing nearly as dramatic took place on the Pallacorda this week. A decade ago, the folks at the Italian Federation built a new stadium court — how, after all, do you carve hospitality suites out of marble? — which had the effect of relegating the Pallacorda to “second-court” status.
So earlier this week, as Andy Roddick and Andre Agassi played the big house, the Pallacorda hosted second-tier players in front of maybe 1,500 fans. Richard Gasquet, a prodigiously gifted French teenager who finally is living up to expectations, drilled poor Paradorn Srichaphan who, playing on his least-favorite surface, was about as fleet afoot as the statues overlooking the court. Then the Swedish veteran Thomas Johansson humiliated Spain’s talented-but-temperamental lefty, Feliciano Lopez, in straight sets.
There was no magic on the courts, but it hardly mattered. The stately green Umbrian pines overhead, the white marble and red clay made for a breathtaking tre colore tableau. The weather was simply perfect, the sky an unremitting canvas of blue. The statues, looking down on the court as though ready to overrule the chair, were as striking as ever. There’s probably some place we’d rather have killed an afternoon. It’s just not coming to us right now.
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